Sep 23, 2015

Perfect 10 Sew-a-long, Day 3

Here is day 3: Day 3

Hello Again!! We are about to start on Day 3, and get sewing! Are you excited?? You should be!
Today is the day where our shirts start to transform from pretty fabric to fabulous shirts!!! If you missed all the happenings on Day 1 and Day 2, be sure to head on over to the LLK blog and catch up.
OK! Day 3: Start Sewing and Bindings. 

The first thing you want to do, before you sew up those shoulder seams and go to town on sewing your pieces together, is to go ahead and do all of your embellishments. I made quite a few Perfect 10 tops, but for breavity's sake, I will just show you the heart pocket option I did. If you have any questions at ALL on the other embellishement options, please tag myself, Radene Averritt or Cassie Nicole. One of us should be on and able to help you. 

You should have 2 pieces cut out of that cute little heart pocket. With wrong sides together sew the heart together being sure to leave about a 1/2 - 1 inch opening so you can turn right side out. I wanted to be a little rebel, so I sewed mine wrong sides together, completely around the heart, because I wanted those raw edges. Once you have the heart sewed up and flipped, take it over to the iron, give it a good press/steam, and then top stitch all the way around the heart and be sure to close up that opening from where you flipped it. Next lay out your front bodice. There is no right or wrong place to put your pocket. I wanted mine left chest.

Since I made a cute little skirt to go with my top with the ballet animals on it, I thought it would be cute to have one of them poking out of the pocket. I just cut it out, ironed on some wonderunder. Placed it on the shirt, ironed it in place, and then top stitched. Once I placed my pocket where I wanted it, I top stitched from where the "heart humps" end, all the away down to the point of the "V" and back up to right where the "heart humps" start again. I used a knit for the pocket (another rebellion on my part, lol) so I used the triple stitch to sew my pocket down. Say "hi" to Ellie the Ballet Elephant!!!  


Now that all of your embellishments are done (ig, heart pocket, peter pan collar, button placket, etc), take your front and back bodice over to your machine. You can either zig zag (stretch stitch) on your conventional machine, or zip it through your serger. After your shoulder seams are done, sew up those side seams, making sure that the under arms line up. 
This is what you should have now: 

Now for what would consider the trickiest part. The Bindings, dun, dun, dun....Sounds like a scary movie title, huh? Ok lets get everything together that needs bindings. 


Gather up just your binding peices. Sew the short ends together right sides together to make a loop.  A little trick I do to help ellivate some of the bulk in the binding, is I fold the seam in half and clip at the halfway mark just down to the seam, but not through the seam.

See photos:


Now you can iron the seam allowance down, split the allowance in half where you just clipped, so each end of the seam allowance is on different sides. Then you can fold wrong sides together and pin at the 1/4 marks. Now take your bodice, and pin at the quarter marks on your neck opening. Please note that the shoulder seams are not a 1/4 mark. I mark center front first, then center back. I bring those pins together, even out the front and back line and go all the way to the edge to find the 1/4 marks at the shoulders. 

I know, I know, I was a bad seamstress and didn't match up my stripes. I will go sit in sewer's time out for a bit. (no kids allowed right??!! lol). Now take your neck binding over to your bodice, line up the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the shirt. Make sure that the binding is laying against the right side of your bodice front and back. Pin at the quarter marks. Please note that your neck binding will be smaller than the neck opening on the bodice. 

Ok, for this next part, take a deep, deep breath. Shake all those wiggles out, exercise your fingers a bit and get ready to attach that binding. It took some practice, but I finally figured out how to make my bindings turn out nice. It has a lot to do with the position of your hands and the position of your tounge! lol - I don't know about you, but whenever I concentrate my tounge decides to stick out. It does it totally on it's own. Ok, take your shirt over to your machine. I use my serger for this part. You want to make sure your needles and presser foot are in the up position. The way you hold your shirt makes a difference too. Your bodice front should be on top and your bodice back should be flat to the machine. Slip your back bodice neck and binding under the presser foot. Before you put the foot down, make sure the binding is on bottom and the back bodice is facing up. Slide the fabric under the presser foot to the seam allowance you need and then lower your presser foot and needles into the fabric.

I always stitch a few places without stretching that way I make sure my garment doesn't slide and skip stitches when I start to stretch. Now you want to grab the pin that is closest to the front of the presser foot. Hold it out until your bodice (or the solid pink in the photo) is flat but not stretched, the binding will "travel" with you, but with your bottom finger you will need to stretch it. It is really hard to explain how I do this, so I attempted to take a picture. 

So you can see that the solid pink is completely flat but there is no tension on it and the bottom binding is stretched out. I use my middle and ring fingers looped in the binding to help keep it stretched. It's almost like finger olympics!  Go ahead and sew all the way around. I typically sew from pin to pin. Once I get to the next pin, I re-adjust and make sure everything is lined up and stretched correctly. And please, please, please make sure to get those pins before your serger does. I can't tell you how many knives I have dulled and how many near death by pin experiences I have had. Please be careful!!! 

Once you have it all sewed all the way around, you will want to take it over to your steam iron and give it a press!!

Once you have a nice pressed binding, take it to your conventional machine or coverstitch and topstitch the neck seam down. I used a triple stretch stitch on mine. 

And wahhhh laaaa!! It wouldn't hurt to steam the neckline once again after you have top stitched. 

Next up are the sleeve bindings. First thing you want to do is sew the side seams of your sleeves together So you have the round of the sleeves complete. Next you want to quarter the bindings that you already sewed into a loop, and quarter your sleeve openings. Be sure to use the straight edge of the sleeve, not the side with the curve. 

We will attach these binding the same way we did the neck binding.

The sleeves are quite a bit smaller that the neckline, especially if you are making one of the smaller sizes. There is an alternative way of adding sleeve bindings. It makes adding them to the tiny sizes much easier. You place your flat sleeve piece right side up. You take your "un-looped" band peice and fold it in half and place the raw edges along the raw edge of the sleeve. 

Pin the center of the binding to the center of the sleeve bottom. You will need to still stretch as you sew the binding on. But sew it all the way across the bottom of the sleeve. Then you can iron the seam allowance up towards the sleeve. The next step would be to sew up the side seams of the sleeve. 

I don't top stitch my sleeve bands, I like the little puff it gives with the stretch. But please feel free to do so. Now that we have both of our sleeves bound (as well as the neckline) we are ready to move onto day 4!! 


P.S. If you still want to purchase this pattern, go straight to the LLK website and use the coupon code perfect10 for a discount! Find the Pefect Ten sewing pattern here!

Don't forget to post pictures of your progress and final project. Mabel Madison is donating a $35 gift card, and LLK is donating gift cards to their pattern shop!! Post pictures on Facebook in the LLK Cafe!

1 comment:

Nicole Padgett said...

How does using a serger affect the seam allowance? New to knits so, sorry if the question seems a little silly.